It also helps to choke up on the bit as far as possible in the drill press chuck to eliminate wobble. Before starting the job you'll want to center punch the exact location where you want the hole to be. A good way to set the device is to use a drill bit of the same diameter as the depth of the hole you wish to drill, in this case 1/8 and adjust the depth device to clamp that bit, then remove it and the device will then let the drill press handle turn just that distance and stop the downward progress of the bit drilling the hole. Ive rented a Williams scope mount drill fixture & bought the appropriate drill bit & 6x48 tap for the screws I have. You might want to double check this for accuracy using a piece of scrap metal before doing the job on the barrel/receiver. ![]() If you're using a drill press, then most of them have a device on the side for setting the depth. An 1/8th inch hole is not very deep, but three complete revolution threads will get you 75% of maximum strength-considered enough in most cases. A broken tap in a hole can be a problem to remove. It is tightening because chips being cut are jamming the threads, and if you force it you'll break the tap. Turn the tap, regular/bottoming, clockwise and when you feel it tighten up back off a turn or two. Use a cutting fluid when tapping, Tap Magic is a good one, but there are others. You'll want to grind it down to it's major diameter, not just a little off the end, so that it will cut threads as nearly to the bottom of the hole as possible. It should a fair amount of torque the entire way of backing it out - and it was a blind hole.Yes-that's how most bottoming taps are made. I will say that I was siding with folks that said once the screw snapped, there should remaind screw head would have no tension on it and be and easy out. Worked like a champ - mission accomplished. ![]() Went to local hardware store and bought a spiral extractor for $2.50. Thought about drilling the next hole size up, but recalled someone mentioning the LH drill bit. Tried super gluing the 3/32" into the hole and torquing on that assembly. I started with a 5/64" drill hole freehanded and fairly well centered. One gent here did offer his services for free (tip of the hat to Jim Kobe.) If I fupped duck, I'd have send it down for a d&t oversized screw hole. Vast selection of parts and accessories for pistols, shotguns and rifles. $80-90 r/t insured to ship to a smith in the Lesser 48 + smith charges, so about $110. Best deals on Gas Blocks, Regulators and tubes. Some said NFW doing yourself and some said no prob.ĭid the cost-benefit analysis. I hemmed and hawed and mulled things over for a couple of days reading the posts here. ![]() Used to have trouble with the old allen head screws but now with the torx they are much easier to remove. You need to have it done in mill to locate the center of the screw. The other hex screw I snapped an Allen wrench !!! trying to turn it out!!! Whoever mounted this base, sure didn't want it to move? WTFĭOn't know where this guy gets his info, "a diamond tipped dill bit"?Ī normal high speed steel drill will work just fine but make sure you have it done by a pro. Fact is I'm starting to strip one hex and I.ve stopped before I completley eff it up. I've got a similar problem, two screws on my scope base (hex head) will absolutely not move. If that screw won't budge, might be better of grinding, sanding, polishing flat and look to drill and tap in another location. I'd bet he.d be lucky to find one gunsmith in his state that wouldn't botch the job. (heat and lubrication) (locked in a vise and variable speed drill press, one that doesn't wobble preferably) Once you get it to "move" just a little, you might be able to gradually work it out?!ĭrilling thru SS you would need special diamond tipped bits (something harder than SS) to either drill the hole out completley or enough to be able to get a screw extractor to bite and hold. I'd try lubricating and or heating the screw first before trying to rotate it back and forth.just to get it loose. SS screw snapped? You've gotta think the screw was glued (locktite) in or somehow welded/rusted tight from firing. ![]() You have probably already done this - it's a long shot but by chance, have you removed the base to see how much of the screw is left sticking up? I have had cheap heads come off the screws and removed the base to find enough of the screw to remove with vise grips.
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